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Earthquake TALES from Coppa

10/24/2021

2 Comments

 
Picture
Original Coppa's Restaurant was a legendary bohemian gathering place in the Montgomery (Monkey) Block where the Transamerica Building now stands. Its crowning glory were the wild murals, created by the artists and writers who made the place their second home sitting for hours at the center table in a long, narrow room with 21 tables.
The leader of the San Francisco Bohemians was Porter Garnett, a writer, editor,  designer and co-creator, with Gelett Burgess, of the 1895 literary magazine The Lark. The group also included the painters Xavier Martinez, Ernest Peixetto, Maynard Dixon, poets and writers George Sterling, James Hopper, sculptor Robert Aiken, Willis and Dan Polk were also frequently in attendance along with many others. The late evening libations were decidedly misogynistic and never included wives. Women were included on occasion if they were pretty enough, or a current girlfriend for a one time review.
Years earlier, Bohemians frequented the The Bohemian Saloon* in Monterey which had walls covered by Bay Area artists, but they were painted over when the bar was sold. Maybe with this in mind, or because Burgess had started to scribble some of his characters in chalk, Papa Coppa agreed to let them create a permanent mural on the wall. They started on a Sunday in 1905, for a free lunch and all the wine they could drink. Giant lobsters, self-portraits, black cats - a nod to the Chat Noir in Paris, and cryptic quotations in many languages adorned the walls. The Oscar Wilde's quote “Something terrible is about to happen.” was prescient in that less than a year later the terrible did happen. On April 18, 1906,  the earthquake and fire spared the Monkey Block, but looters broke into the cafe and destroyed everything. The now legendary mural only lasted one year.

Coppa opened the ruined restaurant and served a last supper by candlelight for the Bohemians and their families who gathered to share earthquake memories. Here is a memory recorded by Xavier Martinez's wife Elsa Whitaker Martinez*;
   Marty was a great friend of Willis Polk, the architect, who recounted his experiences of the earthquake to a group of us at the restored Coppa’s.
  He had built the Chronicle Building, then one of the few modern steel supported buildings in San Francisco. While everyone was running about inspecting their buildings for strains, he was called to discover the source of strange sounds coming from the basement of the Chronicle Building. By the time he reached the spot the police had roped off a large area around the building, fearing it might collapse.
   He scanned the crowd while heading for the basement, found several of his workmen, called to them to follow him declaring, “This building cannot collapse if I get help!”
   They rushed after him into the basement in which were installed great jacks in case of a slight sinking or shifting, because the land all the way up to his building had been filled in land. As the men dashed about under his hectic directions spinning the wheels of the jacks, gradually the roar subsided, the building stabilized, and no sounds issued from the basement — the building was saved.
   As soon as he got out of the basement his knees began to shake and he said, with satisfaction, “A narrow escape!”, and congratulated his men on their courage to which a very large crowd applauded and declared him and his men heroes.
   Then the authorities having decided they must clear a strip of the town up to Van Ness Avenue to save the rest of the city, gave him the job of demolition. He was given a detail of soldiers to carry the dynamite, supplies and lanterns. Without anxiety or incident he demolished a scattering of old buildings and when about the tackle the last one noticed that his detail of soldiers were almost youngsters.
​   Nervously they held the lanterns while he set the dynamite chargers, then absorbed in lighting the fuses with his cigar, finished, looked about, and realized the frightened youngsters had vanished with the lantern. For a moment he watched the sinister flickering and twinkling of the fuses and told himself, “If I don’t remember where the door is I entered, I go up with the building!” He spent ten seconds in intensive concentration, recalling his route, then hurriedly crossed the basement and dashed out the entrance he figured was there. When a safe distance from the building, he was much shaken and declared it the “narrowest escape of his life” — his presence of mind and his memory had served him well and saved his life.
Monkey Block
Monkey Block
Montgomery Street location pre-1906. Is that Jack London?
At the Bar
Papa Coppa tried to recapture the magic with several reincarnations of his cafe in new locations with new murals, but it never regained the same caché. 

* Elsie Martinez is quoted from a longer transcript which includes more Coppa stories.
* The Bohemia Saloon was run by Adulpho Sanchez, brother-in-law of Robert Louis Stevenson. Article here! 
Title: San Francisco Bay Area writers and artists: oral history transcript

By: Martinez, Elsie, 1890-1984
Date: 1962-1963
Copyright: The Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, CA 94720-6000; http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/
2 Comments
Paul Hershey
10/25/2021 07:02:49 pm

As I've been researching Porter Garnett's life and times over the past 25 years, I found your article interesting. I am not sure women were excluded from Coppa's - yes, the majority were male but there were at least 3 women referenced as attendees at their gatherings there. In addition, one possible source for the idea of decorating Coppa's was that Garnett was a colleague of Florence Lundborg, who illustrated issues, posters of The Lark (1895-1897), but had been famous in Paris, France for decorating a Cafe there during her art student years in 1897-1899. Nice that you posted the picture of Jack London parked in front of Coppa's after the earthquake/ fire. Always liked that photo. There are Coppa family members still living in SF, Bay area by the way... they've emailed me on occasion. And prior to his death, I spoke with Unna about his book on the murals - very interesting person. Wished I could have met him personally. As to Garnett - he's got quite a personal history. His uncle, Major Robert Selden Garnett, Jr. designed the Great Seal of California in 1850, his father (Louis A. Garnett) was famously involved with the US Mint in SF, nationwide. His Great Grandmother was Olympe deGouge, famous in Paris up to her death in 1792 - an early feminist but that's not why she was executed by the French anti-royalist crowd that had taken control of the French government.

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Julene Hunter - Author
10/25/2021 11:39:48 pm

Thank you! Great info and we will connect. Yes, there were women in attendance, but wives were not particularly welcome ;| The post-quake dinner was noted for their inclusion. From what I've read, it was always uncomfortable unless you were the pretty new thing. Annie Laurie remembers Sanguenetti's as a preferred hangout. Daisy hated the place. I'd love to get some info if Florence Lundborg helped with the mural. Other than the identifiable work by Martinez, Porter, et al it's an ephemeral San Francisco memory.

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    Some stories that couldn't make the book in full ... but need to be told! Editors welcomed - sign up below.
    STORIES
    WR HEARST PLANS
    SONG: DAISY
    HOT SPRINGS 1882
    A WILLIS POLK GIFT
    THE RLS CONNECTION 1896

    ​EARTHQUAKE TALES FROM COPPA
    PANDEMIC OF 1889
    ​
    THE BOMB THAT SHOOK SF
    MILAN:CITY OF WATER
    ​
    POLK ON THE MAP
    ​
    FEATHERS, FASHION & FLY FISHING
    ​
    RARE AVIATION FILM - WWI 1914-17
    ​
    1906 SAN FRANCISCO
    ​
    WTF FILES - TECHNOLOGICAL
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    GET ME OUTTA HERE!
    ​
    NO HORSES, NO TENTS, NO $
    DAISY IN FRENCH LITERATURE
    DAISY ON FILM!
    THE WHITE DEATH
    THE SYMBOLISM OF FLOWERS
    POSTE DE SECOURS  WWI
    TRAVEL 1900: LONDON TO PARIS 

    DAISY: REST IN PEACE
    ​
    KEITH'S, DRANE'S & KENTUCKY
    ​MOTHER: MISSOURI COMPROMISE 

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